Niacinamide: What It Does and How to Use It
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is one of the most versatile skincare actives available — it improves pores, dark spots, acne, redness, and barrier function simultaneously. And it plays well with almost everything else in your routine.
Niacinamide works through multiple pathways simultaneously, which is why it has such a broad range of published benefits:
- Pore appearance: Regulates sebum production, reducing the oiliness that makes pores look enlarged. Results visible in 4 weeks.
- Dark spots: Inhibits the transfer of melanosomes (melanin packets) from melanocytes to surrounding skin cells, reducing hyperpigmentation.
- Barrier function: Stimulates ceramide and fatty acid synthesis in the stratum corneum, strengthening the skin's moisture barrier.
- Anti-inflammatory: Reduces redness and inflammation associated with acne and rosacea.
- Collagen: Some evidence for stimulating collagen and keratin production at higher concentrations.
What Concentration Do You Need?
- 2–5%: Good for beginners and sensitive skin. Barrier support, gentle brightening.
- 5–10%: Optimal for most people. Clinical studies showing pore and dark spot improvement typically use 5–10%.
- Above 10%: Minimal additional benefit for most goals; may cause flushing in some people.
Best Niacinamide Products
Paula's Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster
Maximum effective concentration in a concentrated serum designed to mix with other products. Clinically tested for pore reduction.
The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
10% niacinamide with zinc PCA for additional sebum regulation. ~$7, the most popular niacinamide serum on the market. Excellent value.
Olay Regenerist Niacinamide + Peptide 24 Face Moisturizer
5% niacinamide in a full moisturizer formula. Easier entry point — one product covering both niacinamide and moisturization. Great for beginners.